Electric Train Sets – Choosing Your Track
In discussing choosing your track for electric train sets, it’s inevitable that I’ll have to mention some track manufacturers. That doesn’t mean that Trains O Scale endorses them in any way, shape or form.
Rail Types
Let me give you a little overview of the track itself, like what it’s made of and what the different codes mean.
Most model train tracks are made up of one of four different materials. These are; steel, nickel silver, brass and zinc-coated steel. The most common tracks used today are either brass or nickel-silver, although steel tracks are also still used.
Although brass may be a fine conductor of electricity, the oxide that it produces conducts electricity poorly which means frequent cleaning is necessary.
Zinc-coated steel works well as a conductor but it has one big problem. In time, the zinc is going to wear away which will reveal the steel and we all know that steel is going to rust.
Even though nickel silver may not be as good a conductor of electricity as the other materials are, the oxide that forms on it is as good a conductor as the original metal so there is little if any maintenance required.
Now, when you are looking to purchase more track you will see some tracks listed as HO code 83 or N code 55, etc. The number simply tells you how high the rails are in thousandths of an inch. So a code 83 would mean .083 inches high and code 55 would mean .055 inches high.
You can see the height differences in this photo.
Sectional Track
Although you may have decided on the material for your track, you still have some decisions to make before you can start assembling your electric train sets layout.
Do you know the shapes and lengths of track you’re going to use for your model? This is a major consideration. After all, the lengths, shapes and sizes of your individual tracks will dictate the size and shape of your final layout.
Some manufacturers make what are called sectional or snap tracks. These come in various lengths and snap together. Some of these manufacturers also mount their tracks on a simulated plastic roadbed. These sections come in straight tracks and in curved tracks that have radii of 15 inches, 18 inches and 22 inches. In addition you’ll also be able to buy 1/3, ½, and 2/3 lengths in both curved and straight track.
Sectional tracks employ a rail joiner; a slotted clip that connects the pieces of track together. This piece not only provides the physical connection but the electrical connection as well. For these reasons, the fit must be absolutely perfect — it must be a snug fit.
Whatever you do, when you are assembling the train tracks for your electric train sets, do not force the track sections together. They’re manufactured to easily snap together. If you have to force them to fit, then something is wrong. That’s why the track makers manufacture those short lengths! Use them, they really help.
Flexible Track
Flex track is just about every modeler’s personal favorite, mine included. Normally found in three-foot sections, flex track is exactly what is sounds like, it’s flexible. You simply bend these tracks into the shape you want and they stay that way, for the most part.
They are made by most track makers but there are differences between manufacturers. Some flex track, like the ‘Atlas’ Super –Flex, will spring back to its original shape when released.
The advantages of this type of track are many. For one thing, you have fewer track joints. You can also bend them into any radius or angle and cut them into any length you want.
The real key to the successful use of flexible track though lies in the word “smooth”. Let your track “do” everything smoothly. Don’t create curves that your train won’t be able to handle. For that matter, you shouldn’t create sudden rises or descents either.
Types of Track
It doesn’t matter if your trains o scale, ho scale or any other scale, there are basically only six categories of railroad track for electric train sets: curve, straight, flexible, turnout, crossing and function tracks. I’ll talk about the last three because the first three we are all familiar with.
Turnouts – These are often called switches and they let you switch your train from one track to two or three tracks. Here are some examples of these tracks.
L & R hand turnout
3-way turnout
Wye turnout
Crossing Tracks – These allow trains to go across another track running in a different direction and come in various angles.
15 degree cross track
90 degree cross track
30 degree cross track
Rerailer – This forces any wheel that has strayed off the track back onto the track when the train goes over it. In some versions, the feeder and rerailer are combined into one track.
Feeder Tracks – Actually the most important track there is. It connects to your power pack and provides electricity to your layout.
Decoupler – Also known as an uncoupler it does just as the name implies, it uncouples the train cars from each other either manually or electrically.
Rerailer track
Feeder track
Manual decoupler
Outside of the feeder track the other function tracks mentioned above are not really necessary, although they are useful. I don’t know if a rerailer even existed when I was growing up, but it really would have been a nice addition to my electric train sets layout.